Planet Eclipse Warped Sports Manic Paintball Just Paintball G.I Milsim Tipmann BZ Paintball DYE Paintball

Using ReBalls with DYE/Proto Matrix markers

Discussion in 'Tech Troubles' started by Ash - GI Sportz, Mar 13, 2007.

  1. Ash - GI Sportz GI Sportz

    Ash - GI Sportz
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    I noticed that the original thread about this disappeared, so i'll get this stickied for all you ReBall users out there.

    Firstly;
    It is wise to invest in a barrel that you will only use for reballs, as over time the rougher surface of the ball, and any dirt/dust/debris they pick up will eventually mark the inside of the barrel, which, if you then use the same barrel with paint will increase the chance of breaking paint in the barrel.

    If you have just bought yourself a DM7 and you are planning on using reballs then you may at some point need to get yourself a second breach tube, as the reballs (and any dirt/dust/debris that they pick up) will over time mark the surface of the plastic and potentially cause the eyes to not see each other.

    If you have a Proto Matrix 5/6/7 or a Rail, you would be wise to upgrade the ball detents to the DM (sprung) ones, as the rougher surface and hardness of the reballs wears the standard detent down alot quicker than normal due to reballs having a rougher surface that a smooth gelatin paintball.

    Next the marker settings
    1.Set the LPR to stock settings (5 full turns out).
    2. Set your dwell to 25.
    3. Adjust your hpr to give a velocity of approx 200 - 220 fps.

    Rail settings
    -As there is no LPR on the Rail, you will need to increase your dwell to 30, or even 35 in some cases.

    These settings will mean that you sacrifice some efficiency, but they prevent issues such as short cycling of the bolt due to the heavier ball you are using.

    One thing to watch out for is debris from the reballs, if they are not fully cleaned this debris builds up around the Bolt tip (014 BN70) 'o' ring and moving back to the Front wall internal (017 UR70) 'o' ring and the Front bumper (015 BN70) 'o' ring. If left there is a risk these 'o' rings will become damaged. I recommend cleaning and re-lubing the bolt assembly after roughly 2000 - 4000 shots.

    If you have any questions, related or otherwise, then feel free to contact me, either through the forums, or via e-mail eurotech@dyeprecision.com

    Thanks

    Ash Chaplen
    Technical Support
    DYE Europe
     
  2. Ryan(pb alexandria) Clan Killer

    Ryan(pb alexandria)
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  3. djmassacre New Member

    djmassacre
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    Hey Ash I just came across your post as I have been having a lot of issues with my Proto Rail Maxxed with Reballs. I recently bought a brand new Proto Rail Maxxed about a month and a half ago. Everything is stock on the marker, I run the marker with a spire loader and a 68/4500 GI sports tank. I have used the marker at a few indoor paintball fields when I first got the marker with no issues. But, recently I have started going to an indoor Reball field since they are the closest field to me, and I have had nothing but issues to the point that I have to borrow a gun. My marker's board is all stock settings except that it is in Millennium mode. My marker has been cleaned and lubed multiple times, all O-rings on the bolt are perfect. I even replaced the regulator seat and lubed all the o-rings on the regulator. The issue is that the gun will not shoot unless the FPS is over 300 so I cannot even use the marker at the field since they have a 240FPS requirement. Even with the pressure that high, the gun will not fire until the gun is ramping for a little bit of time. Then at times the balls will double or triple feed and just fall out of the barrel, I have to shoot with the eyes off. Is there other settings I should use for reballs such as different dwell settings etc? Do I have to replace things on my brand new marker? This marker has been killing me lately so any help is greatly appreciated!
     
  4. Narkadox The Man With The Golden Gun

    Narkadox
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    Chrono it to ~280 with regular paint first.

    Then increase your dwell until it will fire with re-balls. Try +5ms of dwell first, if it still doesn't cycle keep adding +2ms until it does. Once you've got it cycling add another +1 or 2ms to help prevent drop off.

    Once your gun is fully cycling you can then fine tune it over a chrono.

    If you have to drop your pressure you may find you have problems again, if you do just keep adding +1 or 2 points to your dwell until it cycles again.

    Should sort your problems.
     
  5. Ash - GI Sportz GI Sportz

    Ash - GI Sportz
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    I think firstly you should start by replacing the battery as just about any cycling issues can be (at least partly) attributed to this.

    As Narkadox mentioned, you will need to run the dwell higher - at least 5 but possibly 10ms higher as reballs are a little heavier if memory serves me right and also drag more in the breach.

    The big downside to having to chromo so low with reballs is that you risk dropping out the bottom of the operational pressure range of the gun, so what you need is something to reduce the volume of the firing chamber - we do have an insert you can purchase, but you can also just use electrical tape wrapped around the forward-end of the back cap... This reduces the volume of the chamber so you use less air, meaning less energy release, but the gun stays at the correct pressure for cycling.

    Hopefully the two attached pictures illustrate what I mean...
     

    Attached Files:

  6. djmassacre New Member

    djmassacre
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    Thanks for the quick replies. I have changed the batteries a few times thinking this was the issue. I even changed the batteries in my loader thinking maybe the balls were not dropping fast enough. Neither worked. My next try will be to increase dwell up to 45-50 as both of you have mentioned. That top hat mod is interesting. If i go the electrical tape route how much do you suggest, because if the dwell doesn't work I will have to try that.
     
  7. Ash - GI Sportz GI Sportz

    Ash - GI Sportz
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    You need a fair bit tbh - or even a bit of hose or piping - you need to basically fill the void of the sleeve in front of the o-ring almost out to the full width of the bolt kit (not wider obviously as it won't fit in the body)
     

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