as per title guys how can i fix the leak in more detail it leaks when the trigger is puled and when it is released and help or if someone around northampton/oxford can do it for me that would be geat
autococker three way leak??
- Thread starter mabdog
- Start date
Also does it leak from 3 way when the guns aired up and left standing, or only when cycled using trigger? O-rings can fail on the 3 way spindle but it may be other things too. It's worth checking the LP reg isn't set too high because it will cause leaks - especially if 3 way o-rings are a bit worn. The 3 way can also leak if not timed properly and spindle sits out of postion in the valve body.
You do get a little spent air out of 3 ways during normal operation, it's part of the way a mech cocker pnumatics work. It's more noticable if you don't have QEV's fitted, as the spent air fromn the ram has to vent via the 3 way.
You do get a little spent air out of 3 ways during normal operation, it's part of the way a mech cocker pnumatics work. It's more noticable if you don't have QEV's fitted, as the spent air fromn the ram has to vent via the 3 way.
in answer to wihglah no it doesnt (cycle)the back block dosent return to the body
and gee tee it leaks as soon as i turn the on/off on what size are the o-rings on the 3 way spindle a mate said he read some where that it is a 003 dont know if this i right
and gee tee it leaks as soon as i turn the on/off on what size are the o-rings on the 3 way spindle a mate said he read some where that it is a 003 dont know if this i right
i have only just bought it so no pics as of yet but, it is an Orracle body,elcipse blade trigger,hollow point 3-way,evolution LPR,belsales magnum ram,twist locking feed neck,smart parts grips,smart parts S rail drop with a 32dergrees ASA and a super charger bolt. i have changed the o-rings but it still leaks i would really like to give it to someone on here to get it timed/show me how to time it, i am in and around the northampton and oxford most days of the week but dont mind traveling to drop off/learn
ok i have had a look at a timing thread on an autococker thread and i have a few questions
i have noticed that the lpr hoses from the three way on other guns are in a different places on mine (starting from the trigger side) i have the 1st hose going to back of the ram the 2nd hose to the lpr (i know this is correct) and the 3rd hose is to the front of the ram is this the right layout or does it not matter
also the hammer part of the timing was almost at the end of the trigger pull should this be at the start i.e 1/4 of the pull
i have ran out of air in my bottle but could these things cause the leak
i have noticed that the lpr hoses from the three way on other guns are in a different places on mine (starting from the trigger side) i have the 1st hose going to back of the ram the 2nd hose to the lpr (i know this is correct) and the 3rd hose is to the front of the ram is this the right layout or does it not matter
also the hammer part of the timing was almost at the end of the trigger pull should this be at the start i.e 1/4 of the pull
i have ran out of air in my bottle but could these things cause the leak
Timing a cocker correctly isn't an easy thing for a novice. The more you work on mech cockers or practice building them the simpler it gets, and it's one reason many players give them a miss. I'm a born tinkerer so actually enjoy fettling cockers as much as shooting them. Sounds like the timing on yours may be a mile out. Pity you are not nearer my neck of the woods because I'd be happy to help out.
Hose layout from 3 way depends on what type of trigger frame you have. Slide frame triggers pull the 3 way valve open, where as a hinge frame pushes it open due to see-saw action of trigger. The two end hoses (feeding ram) must swap round to suit otherwise the gun cycles back to front. The hose from LP reg stays in the middle of 3 way regardless of frame type.
Once you have established hosing is correct you can move onto timing, but you are right to say the hammer sear should drop in the first few milimeters of trigger pull. Hope that helps & let us know how you get on.
http://gorrw.com/autococker_animation.htm (this is set up for a slide trigger frame)
Hose layout from 3 way depends on what type of trigger frame you have. Slide frame triggers pull the 3 way valve open, where as a hinge frame pushes it open due to see-saw action of trigger. The two end hoses (feeding ram) must swap round to suit otherwise the gun cycles back to front. The hose from LP reg stays in the middle of 3 way regardless of frame type.
Once you have established hosing is correct you can move onto timing, but you are right to say the hammer sear should drop in the first few milimeters of trigger pull. Hope that helps & let us know how you get on.
http://gorrw.com/autococker_animation.htm (this is set up for a slide trigger frame)
it is a hinge frame so which hose should go where and i WILL hold my hands up i am a comlpete novice with cockers but hey everyone was sometime and i agree i am a tinkerer as well, thats why i went for a cocker (imo no fun with an electro) plus i love the looks you get from the electro players when they get shot from a "relic" as they put it!!!!! anyway back to the subject i think i need to be shown how to time it, and i think the three way o-rings i replaced are gone again i moved the timing rod to the side to get the grip frame off and it started leaking again so i need major help please!!!????