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Official Loctite Use Thread

ruthlessp8ntballer

You And Your ****ing Rope
Oct 10, 2003
276
0
0
United States......BITCHES!
Welcome one and all, to the official (hope to be stickied) Loctite Use Thread.

The next info will prove very useful in the next couple of minutes, and I have spent alot of time researching many sites for this information...so, anyway, if you want me to add something, feel free to PM me. Here it goes.

Note: Before using any loctite, new or old...shake the bottle to re-mix the active chemicals so the bond will form properly.

IF you dont shake it, it may not work up to its full potential. Just a word to the wise.

First The Types of Loctite..

I will refer to the Loctites' color only for reference purposes (colors are that of the adhesive, not the bottle!). Read the damn label on the bottle, that's how you'll buy the right stuff. The list will go from least-strong hold to strongest-hold respectivaley. Note: These are ALL under the label of "thread-lockers"

Loctite 242
Color: Light Blue
Strength: Removable
Can Be removed With: Standard Hand Tools
Reccomendations: Use Primer 7253 for Steel on threads for efficient hold, and so adhesive can cure properly.
Reccomendation 2: Use for securing small screws (majoritavely on trigger point screws) or air-line fittings. Great for securing all QEV's. A dab may also be used to keep your cocking rod in your marker, and keep it from unscrewing when you dont want it to. Remember, its just enough to get the job done. ;)





Loctite 243
Color: Dark Blue or Purple
Strength: Medium
Can Be Removed With: Standard Hand Tools, and a little work.
Reccomendations: Bit stronger than that of 242, but will work better with screws that will need to be lubricated or may become oily with use. Same uses as 242. The Swiss-Army Knife of the paintballer. Not too strong, but not weak either.





Loctite 290
Color: Green
Strength: Steroids Strong
Can Be removed with: Boiling Water or Try a Hairdryer on High for close to 45 minutes (thats how long it took me)
Reccomendations: Something broken internally, or attaching two parts that will see a shedload of use. Also, for macroline/other air fittings. Will not fail you.





Loctite 271
Color: Red
Strength: Godlike
Can Be removed with: A good dose of Napalm.
Reccomendations: Use only to lock your mates' barrel into his marker, or something destructive. Dont use it on your marker, or, I promise, someone will laugh at you.





Loctite 638
Color:?
Strength: Very Strong
Can Be Removed With: A Drill
Reccomendation: Use for installing new feednecks. You dont want them to come undone! This is a maximum retaining compound. Once its on, its not comming off. (Thanks to nwarren for bringing that to my attention. I forgot to paste it.)




Now for a non-thread locking adhesive:

Loctite 290 Wicking Grade
Color: ?
Strength: Enough to hold your bolt in place
Can Be Removed With: Hand-Tools
Reccomendations: To use after adjusting a screw or bolt; but you dont want to lock it there, just keep it from moving from its proper place. Its thin, and can be drizzled down the hole the bolt is in, and get between the threads; leaving enough
strength to keep everything in place.





Okay...now that we have the kinds needed and their uses, lets get to application.

I found these pictures a while back, and I cannot remember where they came from...they're not mine. Anyway...

1) Take your screw and but a dab of loctite at the head and end of the screw as shown.







2) Screw in as you normally would, extra pressure isnt going to enhance the strength of the bond, so screw it in at normal torque.

3) Let sit for 24 hours for good measure. Try to keep it away from humudity, and out of your bag...if you insist on the gun being in your bag, then leave the bag unzipped, for breathing purposes.


Hope this will clear up the 20,000 threads about loctite on this forum, somewhat...good luck.

FOR REGS ON N2 BOTTLES
Do not EVER put loctite to attach the two...the orings allow the two to stay together. Use loctite, and I'll laugh when you either blow-up the fill station; or blow of your hand. :D
 
Official Loctite Use Thread: Sticky Requested

Originally posted by ruthlessp8ntballer



Loctite 290
Color: Green
Strength: Steroids Strong
Can Be removed with: Boiling Water or Try a Hairdryer on High for close to 45 minutes (thats how long it took me)..............


best method for removing strong loctie is a small blow lamp. usualy heat till it smokes a bit and evne the hard stuff is a doddle to un-do, and a lot fater than a hair dryer.

altho obviously remove anything that will melt first:rolleyes:
 

Rabies

Trogdor!
Jul 1, 2002
1,344
8
63
London, UK
638 is green. It's sold as a "retaining compound", i.e. it's intended to hold bearings and bushings to shafts. I use it for pretty much everything, because:
  • unlike other threadlockers it will seal gaps up to 0.25mm (0.010") reliably
  • it provides a good airtight seal on gas fittings
  • your joint is not going to come apart during normal use
  • Although the data sheet says it softens enough to remove at 150deg C, but in practise a couple of minutes in boiling water does the trick. A cigarete lighter also works
I use 638 on gas fittings, ram/hammer assemblies, feednecks, pump rods, anything which won't need to be removed on a regular basis (I'll use 242/243 for that.)

The other threadlocker I use is Tamiya R/C threadlocker (thanks QP!). It is low strength but quite gloopy, and is ideal for stopping screws from moving under vibration but doesn't affect their removability. If anyone finds a Loctite equivalent, please tell us!
 

Fly

Platinum Member
Jan 25, 2002
896
39
53
You may have covered this but whats the best one to use for pre-set reg's into bottles? and macro line fittings?