Too Far out,
- Thread starter Tom Tom
- Start date
i'm gonna be trying this out coz i'm using a preset at the mo. i think bringing it forward by about 2 inches is about right but it'll need very slight angling to get the bits to fit under it. a very shallow drop. will get some pics up when i've done it.
I used to think the same when I had an impulse, until I took my huge drop of of it. Now I have my angels set up bottle on gun, 16 inch barrel and I have no issues with it whatsoever, hyperball or airball.
When one guy joined my team he had an impulse with a huge drop and we all kept telling him to try without it. We finally talked him into trying a micro drop once and after a day of play he couldn't go back to his large drop. He's now talking about removing the drop altogether and going with the bottle on the gun.
I don't think I could ever go back to a drop.
IMHO, drop forwards should go the same way as shocker Turbo boards. Ban em!!! Hotpoint get on the case, make em tournament illegal in the UK.
exactly what i was gonna reply to the question.
what you need is a rail, basically a forward, not a drop forward, doesnt do the dropping, just moves it forward.
but like jahlad said, the problem is the bottle restricts the length that the bottle can be moved forward.
at the moment, the bottle on my viking is pushed as far forwardas possible with the frame touching the bottle cover, now i find this alot more comfortable, however when shouldering the bottle, the back of my marker is still a good 6-8 inches from my face.
problem is, theres no way to move the bottle further forward without lowering it, using a drop.
its all about personal preference really, and adapting technique to get the marker tight. the best thing about using no drop is definitely the tightness
if the bottle is in your shoulder, your arm should be under the bottle, not around it, and its just the wrist and hand that should be exposed outside the line of the marker.
dunno if you know this but ive been told since i started that you should hold your marker with the wrist and hand in a 'swan neck' shape.
put your arm out straight palm down, bring the wrist right up to your shoulder with palm facing away from you, and bend your wrist trying to curl ya middle finger in. if you tilt this slightly, thats pretty much how the grip should be held, so only the wrist is showing.
when ya go home, find a big mirror, preferably with a door infront of it. stand behind the door facing the mirro, and stand/kneel how you would, try this with and without a marker and look at your profile. what you see in the mirror, is what the opposition see, the less there is the better.
'just like that'
Your forearm should in front of your tank. This serves two very important purposes:
1. If you're holding your marker at the correct angle, both your forearm and tank will be visible to an extent. By having your forearm and tank overlap the same space in your profile, you...well...MINIMIZE your profile!
2. Tank cover or no tank cover, your padded forearm is going to be softer.
Your grip frame plays a large part in dictating the angle of your forearm. The more vertical your frame becomes, the less of tendency your forearm has to be parallel with the ground. AGD/WGP frames of old were angled so horribly that it was impossible to comfortable fit your forearm in front of a 68ci. Today's .45 frames allow most players to mount their tank far back enough to comfortably maintain a tight profile, all while keeping the tank forward enough to shoulder for stability. WDP's new frame style lets you move your tank up a little bit more, but it isn't particularly necessary for the majority of players shooting the good ole' 68ci.
1. If you're holding your marker at the correct angle, both your forearm and tank will be visible to an extent. By having your forearm and tank overlap the same space in your profile, you...well...MINIMIZE your profile!
2. Tank cover or no tank cover, your padded forearm is going to be softer.
Your grip frame plays a large part in dictating the angle of your forearm. The more vertical your frame becomes, the less of tendency your forearm has to be parallel with the ground. AGD/WGP frames of old were angled so horribly that it was impossible to comfortable fit your forearm in front of a 68ci. Today's .45 frames allow most players to mount their tank far back enough to comfortably maintain a tight profile, all while keeping the tank forward enough to shoulder for stability. WDP's new frame style lets you move your tank up a little bit more, but it isn't particularly necessary for the majority of players shooting the good ole' 68ci.
For those of you looking for a mounting rail, here are a few:
http://www.customproducts-az.com/new-raildrop.htm
http://www.hybrid-paintball.com/prod-blunt.htm
This thing includes an on-off asa and mounts directly to the grip frame. It is my personal favorite:
http://www.checkitproducts.com/html/unimount.htm
http://www.customproducts-az.com/new-raildrop.htm
http://www.hybrid-paintball.com/prod-blunt.htm
This thing includes an on-off asa and mounts directly to the grip frame. It is my personal favorite:
http://www.checkitproducts.com/html/unimount.htm