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rotor or z2

shootinropez

Well-Known Member
Sep 6, 2012
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Kent
oh yes true. sorry got it a bit mixed up there ;). I think the spire is the best for change between speed feed and lid though
 
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ravdude

Member
Jan 25, 2009
40
1
18
Leicester uk
well if you want to change between the two in between playing i'll let you get your screwdriver out :) the point i'm making is that to change easily between the two you need one topshell with a lid fitted and another with a speedfeed fitted.
no wonder you're finding it hard, you need an allen key not a screw driver. :p

As for people saying they have "breaks" in their hoppers, thats not the hoppers fault, thats yours/paints fault

But yea, rotor all the way,
 
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Liam92

#16 Reading Entity
Nov 4, 2009
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Glasgow, Scotland
no wonder you're finding it hard, you need an allen key not a screw driver. :p

As for people saying they have "breaks" in their hoppers, thats not the hoppers fault, thats yours/paints fault

But yea, rotor all the way,
its hardly the crux of the matter but it used to be regular phillips head screws they used. either way the point is it is slow as f*ck!

you trying to say that if you are using a constant force feed loader that is cranked up to maximum speed and it blends all your paint that that is still the paints fault? :S
 
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ravdude

Member
Jan 25, 2009
40
1
18
Leicester uk
its hardly the crux of the matter but it used to be regular phillips head screws they used. either way the point is it is slow as f*ck!

you trying to say that if you are using a constant force feed loader that is cranked up to maximum speed and it blends all your paint that that is still the paints fault? :S
i was just taking the piss at the start :p But as for changing from a speed feed to a normal lid.....if you pre plan and look at the weather channel, then youll know if you need to put a normal lid on. Its not like you change it every game is it. Its like saying, a regulator is easier to take off of a dye gun, than in a mini, who cares, its not something your doing every 5 seconds anyway.

and no, but lets say your diving into bunkers, and knocking the paint around like a maniac in your hopper, then if it breaks, its hardly the hoppers fault. If the paint can withstand the knocking around, then it sure as hell can stand up to a constant feed loader. Thus its got hardly anything to do with the hopper, its user error for shaking your hopper around, and the paints fault if its brittle. Yes the hopper mechanism may have a small part to play, but an insignificant one.

You think dye didnt think of this? You think they went....oh what the hell, lets just make the fastest mechanism possible, even though 15 bps is more than enough anyway, lets make the mechanism so fast that is breaks the paint. For one of, if not the biggest paintball companies in the world, i think they took into account the force of the mechanism and fine tuned it to make sure it didnt use so much force as to break the paint.

THUS, its not the hoppers fault for breaking paint.

get a bag of paint, put some in a primo, some in a rotor and some in a z2...and shake the hell out of it. If it breaks in one, itl break in the rest. And a primo doesnt even have a mechanism.
 
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Liam92

#16 Reading Entity
Nov 4, 2009
2,370
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Glasgow, Scotland
i was just taking the piss at the start :p But as for changing from a speed feed to a normal lid.....if you pre plan and look at the weather channel, then youll know if you need to put a normal lid on. Its not like you change it every game is it. Its like saying, a regulator is easier to take off of a dye gun, than in a mini, who cares, its not something your doing every 5 seconds anyway.

and no, but lets say your diving into bunkers, and knocking the paint around like a maniac in your hopper, then if it breaks, its hardly the hoppers fault. If the paint can withstand the knocking around, then it sure as hell can stand up to a constant feed loader. Thus its got hardly anything to do with the hopper, its user error for shaking your hopper around, and the paints fault if its brittle. Yes the hopper mechanism may have a small part to play, but an insignificant one.

You think dye didnt think of this? You think they went....oh what the hell, lets just make the fastest mechanism possible, even though 15 bps is more than enough anyway, lets make the mechanism so fast that is breaks the paint. For one of, if not the biggest paintball companies in the world, i think they took into account the force of the mechanism and fine tuned it to make sure it didnt use so much force as to break the paint.

THUS, its not the hoppers fault for breaking paint.

get a bag of paint, put some in a primo, some in a rotor and some in a z2...and shake the hell out of it. If it breaks in one, itl break in the rest. And a primo doesnt even have a mechanism.
actually, having the unpredictable weather we do i'd say its pretty damn handy to be able to change "every 5 seconds" because if its not raining there is no need for a speedfeed but if it rains for 30 minutes it would be nice to have a lid in that time don't you agree?
well of course if you take a hard dive you run the risk of breaking paint but your exact words were "...in their hoppers, thats not the hoppers fault, thats yours/paints fault" so it didn't seem like you had taken that into account but i'm glad you are aware that hoppers can be a cause of breaks too :)
don't know if you are aware but the rotor isn't a true constant feed, when the paint is fully loaded into the breach and the red arm encounters resistance then the motor disengages so that no pressure is applied to the ball stack by the counter rotating top section of the rotor. whereas something like the halos which are sound activated, if the settings are too high they will still try to feed and apply further pressure to the ballstack and risk causing a break.