Don't need no stinkin valve tool!

[Bone]

This is most probably common knowledge amongst all autococker owners, but seeing as i'm a new one i thought i'd share it with ya just in case....

....you might read in a post near by that i've been fiddling with valve springs...

Before i could do this i had to get the valve out! I spent a good 15 minutes scratching my head wondering what the hell that huge hex hole (5/16") was and how to get at it with the valve pin in the way.. .. a quick internet search later told me that it was the Jam nut on the valve and it needed a "special autococker valve tool" in order to be removed! what? .....damn! ....surely you just need a flat edged 5/16" allen key and abit of muscle (to push the valve pin forwards) ...or, hang on, this long nut on the cocking rod looks... yes, it IS 5/16" and its got a hole in the middle where the pin can go...

...so i took the locking grub screw out, then the little rubber shock-absorbing ring off, replaced it with a normal nut (to lock it) put two more on the other end of the cocking rod and locked them together (something to grip with a spanner or mole grips) and sure enough, it slipped over the valve pin and into the hex hole perfectly. After a bit of effort to over come the locktite the jam nut was out!
No "special tool" in sight. This will only work if you have what i think is a standard cocking rod with the elongated 5/16" hex nut on the end.

I don't know if this is by design or what but i'm grateful if it is. Its very clever if it is.....

Anyway, this is most probably old news coz i couldn't find any other posts about people having trouble getting their valves out.... maybe you all have the "special tool" .....

 

[Silentbob]

How very very weird

I have been stripping my cocker ready for Eblade +machining, and could not think how to get the valve out, now I do...

CHEERS!

 

[vantrepes]

The only problem with doing it that was is getting the valve back in. Without the collar on the valve tool, you run a better chance of cross threading the jam nut, and destroying the body. Just be VERY careful when you put the jam nut back in.

 

[Nudge-TeamScream]

Get a WGP auto cocker spares kit for 35 quid from planet, has everything you need.... Including the valve tool - Huzzah!

 

[Bone]

Yes, Vantrepes is right, you DO have to be very careful taking it out and putting it back in, because you start and end up with very little purchase on the nut. The best way i found was to make sure the rod was centered in the hole and to push down along the rod as you twist whilst keeping the rod centered, then watch through the sear lug hole on the gun body to make sure the nut is actually turning and you arent just grinding metal.

I found putting the nut back in slightly easier, although you still have to be very careful, it does turn smoothly and easily once its on the right thread so if there's any resistance or it sticks, take it out, turn it half a turn and try again. DON'T force it!