9v battery will power a 12v motor, but it has to power the marker as well and the strain on the battery will severely cut its lifespan down. Use it on a 9v revvy only, more energy efficient, just change to a 4 blade impeller.
Intellifed?
- Thread starter spyderflashlcd23
- Start date
Lance you will find the intellifeed wire inside one of the envelopes I sent along with the angel mate it has a plastic end and only two wires on show at the other end it fits onto the sight rail so no need to buy a new one
Hopper question
Not strictly on-topic, but I'll risk spyder's wrath
I posted on another thread about the motors in the 9 and 12 volt revvys and the concensus was that they are the same motor and so that a 9volt motor could be attached to a 12volt board quite safely. Is this the case?
this would suggest that to put together an intellified hopper you'd be best off buying a 9volt hopper and an upgraded impellar.
An alternative is the Re-Load kit, which works on a similar theory, but uses the sound of your marker firing, to convert a revvy is about £35 but they are supposed to be the muts nuts (mine is in the post)
Good luck anyways
Richard
Not strictly on-topic, but I'll risk spyder's wrath
I posted on another thread about the motors in the 9 and 12 volt revvys and the concensus was that they are the same motor and so that a 9volt motor could be attached to a 12volt board quite safely. Is this the case?
this would suggest that to put together an intellified hopper you'd be best off buying a 9volt hopper and an upgraded impellar.
An alternative is the Re-Load kit, which works on a similar theory, but uses the sound of your marker firing, to convert a revvy is about £35 but they are supposed to be the muts nuts (mine is in the post
)Good luck anyways
Richard
12V thru a 9 volt motor will eventually burn out the motor. If it was already a 12V motor, then the 9v revvy must have been deliberately run underpowered. Probably to prevent the impeller damaging paint.
I would think the latter is more reasonable and in that case the power drain on the marker battery will be the same whether it's the 9v or 12v version.
I would think the latter is more reasonable and in that case the power drain on the marker battery will be the same whether it's the 9v or 12v version.
If you're going to do a home-brew intellifeed you might as well do it to your Riccochet unless you want to keep it as a backup. Just run the wires directly to your motor after disconnecting the wires from your board to your motor. Your timer function though won't work unless you do some re-routing or you keep the 9v in the hopper.
The 9v was brought out as a cheaper alternative for people sensitive to the price point (translation: for people without much money). Heck, in the beginning they just changed the paddle, disabled the LED, and put a spacer in the battery compartment. It was cheaper to modify a current production model, than to retool. High efficiency semi-conductors tend to be very sensitive to voltage variations...gross physical items like normal electric motors (like the one in the servo) tend to be very tolerant of voltage variations. Besides, if he's hooking it up to his Angel, he's dropping the voltage down to 6v, not stepping up to 12v. The whole thing about Intellifeed was to lighten up the gun a little and to not have that delay that Rev's used to have.
Ray
The 9v was brought out as a cheaper alternative for people sensitive to the price point (translation: for people without much money). Heck, in the beginning they just changed the paddle, disabled the LED, and put a spacer in the battery compartment. It was cheaper to modify a current production model, than to retool. High efficiency semi-conductors tend to be very sensitive to voltage variations...gross physical items like normal electric motors (like the one in the servo) tend to be very tolerant of voltage variations. Besides, if he's hooking it up to his Angel, he's dropping the voltage down to 6v, not stepping up to 12v. The whole thing about Intellifeed was to lighten up the gun a little and to not have that delay that Rev's used to have.
Ray
p8ntballr07: Theoretically, yes you can. You just have to figure out where to hook the wire to without either bringing the circuit down too far or frying something. The safest way is to use a power transistor to isolate the circuit and drive the hopper motor. My old Shocker was a test bed for far too many ideas (open it up and you had to pack the loose wires back into place), but if you go messing around inside your gun just be aware that you might fry your board and you have to be willing to buy a replacement.
I know that on the W.A.S. board for an Intimidator, there's an output to drive a hopper like an Intellifeed, or to trigger a warpfeed electrically, so I'm guessing that their board for an Impulse should also have that same output. If I were going to Intellifeed a non-Angel E-gun, I'd save myself some headache and go with a WAS board...but then again, I'd probably only Intellifeed my gun if I only carried two pods into every game. Sometimes even when I'm playing front, I either catch someone in the open or I have to push someone in and I have to go ODT (On Da Trigger) and I suspect that I'd outrun a 6-volt driven motor. With my Rev (that I just snapped) I can tell both by looking at the paddle speed and by the number of skips I start to get, when my 12v battery supply is running a little low. Theoretically I shouldn't see any performance dropoff until both 9 volt batteries drop below 6v each, but I see a slower paddle speed when my batteries drop to 8v (I know because I was testing rechargeable 9v batteries and I discovered that a 9v rechargeable is sometimes really a 7.2v battery...read the label on the side of the battery). Also, sometimes I hit the ground a little hard and I tend to knock my hopper around and the Intellifeed cable tends to come loose at the worst times. I'd have to tape or fix my cable into place.
Ray
I know that on the W.A.S. board for an Intimidator, there's an output to drive a hopper like an Intellifeed, or to trigger a warpfeed electrically, so I'm guessing that their board for an Impulse should also have that same output. If I were going to Intellifeed a non-Angel E-gun, I'd save myself some headache and go with a WAS board...but then again, I'd probably only Intellifeed my gun if I only carried two pods into every game. Sometimes even when I'm playing front, I either catch someone in the open or I have to push someone in and I have to go ODT (On Da Trigger) and I suspect that I'd outrun a 6-volt driven motor. With my Rev (that I just snapped) I can tell both by looking at the paddle speed and by the number of skips I start to get, when my 12v battery supply is running a little low. Theoretically I shouldn't see any performance dropoff until both 9 volt batteries drop below 6v each, but I see a slower paddle speed when my batteries drop to 8v (I know because I was testing rechargeable 9v batteries and I discovered that a 9v rechargeable is sometimes really a 7.2v battery...read the label on the side of the battery). Also, sometimes I hit the ground a little hard and I tend to knock my hopper around and the Intellifeed cable tends to come loose at the worst times. I'd have to tape or fix my cable into place.
Ray
If you want to intelifeed the hopper so that it uses its own power but spins on every trigger pull, you want to attach wires up to the revvy board where the eye usually plugs on(remove the eye) and run the wire down and stick one wire on the positive cable of the trigger switch, and one to the negative cable. Then it should run when the switch is actuated.
If you want to intellifeed the revvy so that it uses the guns power then open up your revvy, remove board and server. Pop open the bottom of the servo and remove the original wires(usually red and black). Then fit your new wires to it, fasten the servo back up. Attach a male phono plug to the the wires coming from the servo. Then wire up some wire to the place on the board where it says 'hop' and stick a female phono plug on that wire. Now connect them and it should spin with each trigger pull.
Sorry, its quite hard to explain, but it is very easy to do
If you want to intellifeed the revvy so that it uses the guns power then open up your revvy, remove board and server. Pop open the bottom of the servo and remove the original wires(usually red and black). Then fit your new wires to it, fasten the servo back up. Attach a male phono plug to the the wires coming from the servo. Then wire up some wire to the place on the board where it says 'hop' and stick a female phono plug on that wire. Now connect them and it should spin with each trigger pull.
Sorry, its quite hard to explain, but it is very easy to do
Your first solution is easier than my own version where you keep your Rev. batteries in, but I suspect that you'd have to pay attention to polarity when attaching wires. I'm wondering if you need to run a hot wire to the Rev sensor wires or if you just need to complete an open circuit. Have you tried this? Please let us know if you have.
My solution was to cut one of the wires to the servo, install a diode in the proper direction so that when you apply current from the gun's batteries, it doesn't fry the Rev board, and you choose the diode so it doesn't slow down the servo too much (if you wanted to live dangerously you could just match polarities of the power supplying wires and skip the diode). Then you attach the Intellifeed wires to the servo terminals along with the regular power wires from the board (with the diode inline). This way, when you pull the trigger on your gun, the paddle spins every time, and if for some reason the paddle can't keep up with your Rate Of Fire, the Rev board senses the gap in the balls and kicks the paddle in, at a faster speed (hopefully) so you get the best of both worlds. Also, if you either forget to turn the hopper on (NEVER happens, eh?) or forget to buy fresh batteries for the hopper, you can still be effective...your hopper paddle will still turn with every trigger pull...or so that's how it's supposed to happen On the flip side, if you knock your Intellifeed wire loose (NEVER happens, eh?) when you flop and tumble to the ground, you're not screwed 'cause your Rev sensor will kick in and hopefully you'll eventually notice and re-attach the cable...when I used to knock my Intellifeed wire off, I would shake my gun and curse and it always took a comment from a spectator to make me realize that the funky wire hanging over my wrist wasn't supposed to be hanging
Oh, the reason I thought of the diode was 'cause on the old Rev boards, the power transistor (that drives the solenoid?) would always get hot and eventually fry, and the board would go down. yes, you could actually almost burn yourself on the heat tab sometimes.
Ray
My solution was to cut one of the wires to the servo, install a diode in the proper direction so that when you apply current from the gun's batteries, it doesn't fry the Rev board, and you choose the diode so it doesn't slow down the servo too much (if you wanted to live dangerously you could just match polarities of the power supplying wires and skip the diode). Then you attach the Intellifeed wires to the servo terminals along with the regular power wires from the board (with the diode inline). This way, when you pull the trigger on your gun, the paddle spins every time, and if for some reason the paddle can't keep up with your Rate Of Fire, the Rev board senses the gap in the balls and kicks the paddle in, at a faster speed (hopefully) so you get the best of both worlds. Also, if you either forget to turn the hopper on (NEVER happens, eh?) or forget to buy fresh batteries for the hopper, you can still be effective...your hopper paddle will still turn with every trigger pull...or so that's how it's supposed to happen
On the flip side, if you knock your Intellifeed wire loose (NEVER happens, eh?) when you flop and tumble to the ground, you're not screwed 'cause your Rev sensor will kick in and hopefully you'll eventually notice and re-attach the cable...when I used to knock my Intellifeed wire off, I would shake my gun and curse and it always took a comment from a spectator to make me realize that the funky wire hanging over my wrist wasn't supposed to be hanging Oh, the reason I thought of the diode was 'cause on the old Rev boards, the power transistor (that drives the solenoid?) would always get hot and eventually fry, and the board would go down. yes, you could actually almost burn yourself on the heat tab sometimes.
Ray